![]() As mentioned before, explain to the customer what you are doing first so there are no questions later. If they are Big Box cabinets with 1/4 stapled backs, I would put a piece of 1/4" ply across the gang on the back and cover the outside corner with flat stock or quarter round. There is no rule that says you only have to use two screws in the top or in the top of the inside. ![]() Double up on the mounting screws where you do have studs. If you are really concerned, screw a piece of 1/4" on top of all four cabinets to tie them together from the tops when you gang them. After all, it is no different than hanging a 24 when you think about it. The best approach we have come up with is to put a sheet of plywood the same size as the back of the cabinets and put drywall screws every 3 inches and then screw the cabinets to the plywood. Plaster and lath stud walls are a blessing. Zircon Tip Minutes with Eric, the Zircon Tip Guy, are designed to give you essential tips that you can use in. Although in future you should consider recessing the back of your cabinets 3/4 of an inch and using a French in such situations. Scanning Lath and Plaster Walls for wall studs. (Each cabinet is custom, like a piece of furniture.) The heaviest cabinet is about 30 pounds when empty. If you recessed the backs of your uppers, then install a (hardwood) hang cleat to the wall studs and attach your boxes to the cleat.Ĭan you attach cabinets to a French cleat? Assuming the cleat on the wall is very secure - this is for a custom job where the owner wants to take them with him when he moves. I wouldn't want to be the guy in the future trying to remove and save the cabinet for use elsewhere. Cabinet's not going anywhere any time soon. Screw the ones to the studs that you can, screw the rest to the lath and plaster with adhesive caulking under all of them. ![]() You are making mountains out of mole hills. What contributor D said, if it's applicable. Gang 'em together to make one 48" cabinet, and screw it in wherever you can. If that 9" cab is touching the pantry and one of the middle 15" cabinets, which I assume will be securely mounted to studs on down the row, just attach it to those two cabinets. If going through 3/4 mounting strip, don't use anything shorter than 2 1/2". They have a larger washer head and an auger tip. Your screw length will depend on your mounting rail or if you are just screwing through the backs. Let the customer know the situation ahead of time and they will understand. Also, screw the cabinets to the pantry cabinet if possible. Pocket screw a 2x4 in between the studs, fill out to the thickness of the wall panel, hang your cabinets on the 2x4. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)Ĭut the lath and plaster back the width of a 2x4 and the length you need at the top of where the cabs will mount. I'm in the middle of trying to get this done before putting base cabinets under these. ![]() Suggestions? Fastener recommendations and lengths? And of course. Any way I juggle them, the edge of the 9" cabinets falls on a stud, leaving the in a stud-free zone, and the 15's won't have more than one set of attachment points, top and bottom.Īfter pondering a while, I'm thinking I need to install a couple of 1 x 2 horizontal mounting rails through the wall to the studs, screw the cabinets to the rails and then hide the gap with molding or something similar. The next stud to the right is 9" from the edge of the pantry. ![]() This set of cabinets starts to the right of an 18" wide pantry cabinet. The cabinets are all 30" tall and 12" deep, with two 9" wide cabinets at each end and two 15" wide cabinets in the middle. Those glued to some of my wife's sowing thread works like a charm.I'm trying to hang a set of four cabinets on a lath and plaster wall. I have a bunch of M52 rare earth magnets from my hobby modeling. Magnet and string idea works like a charm. So I wanted to ask for suggestions in hopes I can possibly find something good and stop missing studs.ĮDIT: thanks for the comments. We're hoping to start a DIY kitchen cabinet reno this weekend, and a good stud finder is obviously a necessity. Used a few different kinds, but they never seem to work correctly that being said, it could easily be user error. We've struggled to find a stud finder that accurately detects where studs are. And as far as I can tell, the gaps between studs, or the sizes of the studs, are not consistent. Our house was build in 1927(ish) and has all lath and plaster. Sorry if this is a bit more simple of a question, but my wife and I have struggled on various home projects in finding the studs in our walls. Hey all, first time poster to the sub, but been lurking for a while. ![]()
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